Alsace to Istria
- mrsschmitt
- Jun 1, 2016
- 11 min read
Updated: Feb 23, 2019
Our adventure starts in the ancient Roman town of Turicum (Zurich), from where Mr. Schmitt and I will head northwest into the Alsatian heartland. We'll cling to the northern shore of Lake Constance, before traversing the Alpine peaks and exploring the majestic Dolomites. A warm Cipriani welcome awaits us in "the pearl of the province of Treviso", along with Paladian treasures and Prosecco vineyards as far the Venetian eye can see. After sampling San Daniele's finest, and lapping up Jermann hospitality, we'll follow the northern shore of the Adriatic into Roman "Histria" for an overdose of cultural and gastronomic delights, before ending this fabulous adventure in Emona (Ljubljana). Oh, I forgot to mention the romance .... that goes without saying, every hairpin and step of the way ...
Destination Alsace
Arriving in Zurich bright and early on a May morning, we are welcomed by Jos, from the fabulous Adriatic Motor Tours, and pick up our trusted steed for the adventure ahead (a brand new BMW R 1200RT). Gastronomy reigns supreme from the outset, as we depart for the beautiful region of the Alsace, where we reunite, feast and celebrate with family and friends on the wonders of the local cuisine and vineyards. Much loved by Mr Schmitt for its franco-germanic fare, its unique wines and fine eau-de-vies, it was a long-awaited first for Mrs Schmitt, and did not disappoint ...
Lakeside Lindau
Leaving the Alsace and crossing the border, we head for and cling to the northern shore of the lake. Bordered by Austria, Germany and Switzerland, Lake Constance is a wealth of culture ... baroque churches and benedictine abbeys grace the shorelines, along with roman forts and medieval castles ... surrounded by meadows, rolling vineyards and the Alpine foothills ...
Lake Constance has sat at the crossroads of Europe for centuries. It was formed by the Rhine Glacier during the Ice Age, and continues to be fed by the majestic Rhine today. The lake was first mentioned by the Roman geographer Pomponius Mela in the 1st century AD.
After the Council of Constance (1414-1418), the Latin-speaking Catholic world gave the lake its current name, after the town of Konstanz on its western shore, and in honour of either Roman emperor Constantius Chlorus or his grandson Constantius II.
Perched above Lindau, in the heart of lush Bavarian fruit orchards, is Hotel Villino. An intimate Italian style villa, set in a garden to dream in, with a cuisine focused on "intoxicating the senses" ... Culture is on the doorstep in the historic old harbour town, if you manage to tear yourself away from the small garden of eden and treasure trove of gastronomy and romance ... Gastronomy was our priority, and we indulged in an excellent tasting menu, accompanied by a surprisingly fine selection of local wine ... yes ... fine German wine ... who would have known ...
Crossing the Alps
Hannibal's crossing of the alps in 218 BC is one of the most celebrated achievements of any military force in ancient warfare. Our route did not follow directly in his footsteps, but followed a prehistoric mule track which years later was regularized by the Romans - the Brenner Pass. The Roman road was completed in the 2nd century AD forming an important link between Italy and the province of Raetia, and maintained its importance as a trade route, becoming part of the Via Imperii in the High Middle Ages. At 1,374 metres above sea level, it is the lowest mountain pass in the eastern chain of the Alps. As we crossed Austria, through alpine territory, little did we know that the menacing skies and strong winds that afternoon were but a taster of what was to come in the days ahead ...
The Dolomites
Jagged peaks jutting into the sky intermixed with verdant green valleys ... a landscape that is unrelentingly beautiful. The Pale Mountains are said to take on a rose hue as sunset approaches, due to the unique nature of the carbonate rock dolomite from which the mountain range gets its name. The Dolomites were to be one of the highlights of our trip ..
Passing from Austria into the South Tyrol, our route was to descend into the Sarentino valley, via the Passo di Pennes - an idyllic area settled since prehistoric times. The Passo di Pennes is closed during the winter months and usually opens in early May, dependent on the weather. Having confirmed that morning that the pass was open, we were excited for the adventure and the vistas ahead. During a quick roadside lunch at the Brenner Pass, I secured Mr Schmitt's commitment that, regardless of the menacing skies and low clouds, we would stop at the top of the pass to enjoy the view. As the road started to rise the heavy clouds descended further ... Rising higher, further into the clouds, we were suddenly surrounded by snow, and could see where the trucks had recently carved through the snow and ice to open the road for spring.
As we neared the peak the visibility deteriorated to a matter of meters and the temperature plunged to freezing point - confirmed by the rain & mist freezing on my helmet visor. We were 100% at the mercy of the elements and of the sanity of drivers coming from the other direction. By this point I was praying that Mr Schmitt would not deliver on his commitment, and simply that we would make it over the pass and down in one piece ... I was literally frozen for what felt like forever - not from the temperature (though it was cold) but more so in fear of moving one millimetre and distracting my chauffeur, or knocking the bike off balance. Finally the gradient shifted and we started our descent ... slowly but surely we emerged from thick cloud cover into relative safety ... cold, wet, adrenalin-filled, relieved and extremely thankful for heated seats !!! I am sure the views must be spectacular on the pass, but they were not for us to see. That said, the experience will last longer in our minds than any glossy image of mountain peaks ...
We descended into the green valley, hearts still racing, and in the aftermath of our adventure, we forgot to stop and quench our thirst for culture at the small parish church of Pennes to admire the late gothic frescoes that adorn it walls ... Next time ...
From here, it was to our well deserved luxurious mountain rifugio - Auener Hof - surrounded by silence (and thick cloud and fog) and boasting the highest Michelin star dining room in Italy ... In celebration of having survived a fairly hair-raising experience, we devoured an extraordinary meal ... without doubt the most spectacular tasting menu that Mr Schmitt or I had ever consumed ... Extraordinary - yes it is worthy repeating. We will be back ...
We rose early, and took in a hearty alpine breakfast to prepare us for a thrilling adventure ... the Great Dolomite Road lay ahead of us. Running from Bolzano to Cortina D'Ampezzo, it is highly regarded as one of the most scenic and breathtaking roads in Italy.
Cutting through the most scenic peaks of the mountain range, the road stretches 100km in total, and there is no better way to traverse it than on 2 wheels. With switchbacks and curves galore to absorb the full focus of Mr Schmitt, I was looking forward to soaking in the majestic scenery and no doubt hold my breath more than once as I put my faith in my trusty chauffeur and cling on to him for dear life (or maybe just as a good excuse to stay close!).
Mother Nature, however was not to be on our side ... menacing skies were becoming a theme of our mountain experience ... It was almost as if the jugged peaks of the dolomites were desperately trying to reveal themselves to us in all their beauty, but when one appeared, it was quickly enveloped in cloud. Nevertheless we were determined to press on and overcome any climatic adversities. We conquered the Passo Pordoi, at 2,293m high, surviving almost more "tornanti" than one could count, both on the ascent and descent, again through mist and drizzle on wet, slippery roads. Mr Schmitt was fearless as ever, and valiantly chaperoned his precious cargo through the pass. Bravado however only lasted so long, and cold and wet, we decided that we would have to wait til next time to complete the famous road, and headed south in search of dry skies and relative warmth ... finding brief refuge in the never to be forgotten Bar Stop near Limana ...
The City of a Hundred Horizons
Physically tired, but drier and more importantly warmer, thanks to the great espresso, we descended into the foothills of the Dolomites to the beautiful medieval hilltop village of Asolo, otherwise known as the City of a Hundred Horizons and the Pearl of the Province of Treviso ....
The Cipriani name holds a host memories: wonderful days spent with my father at the Cipriani in Venice, unbeatable people watching (including the Don himself) on West Broadway, NYC, with my dear friend Suki, and most memorable of all, the unforgettable afternoon Mr. Schmitt and I spent at Cipriani's in Torcello. As a result, we were never going to miss the Hotel Villa Cipriani: once the home of Robert Browning, it is a beautiful renaissance style villa located in the heart of Asolo ...
The moment eternal – just that and no more – When ecstasy’s utmost we clutch at the core While cheeks burn, arms open, eyes shut and lips meet! Robert Browning - Now
Our days in the Veneto were destined to fulfil all our desires ... Culture rich and a Gastronomer's dream, Veneto is at its heart a land for lovers ... Mr Schmitt and I fitted right in ...
On a day dedicated to soaking in the sun (finally!) and sparkling delights we were fortunate enough to briefly witness day one of testing out the new bottling machine at the intimate and welcoming family run vineyard Ca' dei Zago, as well as our first experience of Col Fondo in the caring and hospitable hands of Marika and her mother. In need of a little sustenance, we enjoyed magnificent views and a light lunch at the unique Osteria Senza Oste, before relishing possibly the best prosecco ever at winery Bortolin Angelo ...
Come quickly ... I am tasting the stars! Dom Perignon
Our evenings were spent strolling the streets of Asolo and enjoying the wonderful local fare ... the highlight being the fabulous Due Mori ... incredible cuisine and views to match ...
There is also a treasure trove of art in the area. We discovered Veronese's amazing frescoes at Villa di Maser, Andrea Palladio's architectural masterpiece. After a fabulous visit last year to the Villa Borghese in Rome, there was no way we were going to miss out on admiring "Venus in Canova's land" in a wonderful temporary exhibit in Asolo's Museo Civico. We then completed our cultural feast with a visit to Tempio Cannova in Possagno, Canova's hometown. Note to self: a day of culture is not the same without a visit to a local pasticcerria !!
As we left Asolo, they were adorning the city with pink bicycles for the pending arrival of the Giro D'Italia ... unfortunately for Mr Schmitt, an avid fan of the Tour de France, we were a few days too early ...
The home of San Daniele and Jermann
Tucked away in the north east of Italy, bordering with Austria and Slovenia, is the relatively un-travelled Friuli Venezia Giulia. Culturally and geographically diverse, it boasts a wealth of historic attractions and culinary delights. A number of years ago, in a small courtyard in the north of Italy Mr Schmitt and I discovered the fabulous wine of Silvio Jermann. It is with great excitement, that, many years later, we were finally on our way to enjoy real Jermann hospitality. Nestled close to Gorizia and the Slovenian border, lie the Villanova and Ruttars wine estates, along with Vinnaeria La Baita. Our first stop: the Enoteca, owned and managed by the Jermann family - a simple affair, and importantly well stocked with Silvio's finest ...
The next day in a torrential rain storm we braved our way to the Ruttars estate ... and were thankful for the refuge of the central courtyard ... even Pegasus ...
Drenched but enthusiastic, we were welcomed informally into the winery kitchen to dry out and enjoy our first tasting in situ. Within 30 minutes, ready for action, we took a tour of the winery and the grounds, followed by an extended tasting experience of their entire offering. Mr S & I are purists when it comes to Jermann wines ... with a strong preference for the single white grape varietals ... it did not stop us from trying the blends however, of which Capo Martino, named after the scenic hill alongside Ruttars on which the vines are grown, was the winner ... A bottle of wine and a corkscrew richer we made our way back to the Enoteca for further tasting ...
Friuli is also home to the world famous Proscuitto di San Daniele, and there was no way we were going to miss a visit to one of the Consortium producers ... We were warmly welcomed at Arbea, and given a fabulous tour of the relatively new and immaculate factory ... it is incredible what wonders are possible simply with the treatment of salt and air ... Mr Schmitt then put his nose to the test before we sat down and enjoyed the real deal at Arbea House, washed down with a fine glass of local white. A wonderful experience ...
Don't think for one minute that life in Friuli is simply about fine wine and fabulous food (although it so easily could be!), our days were also culture rich, as we explored some incredible and lesser known treasures ...
The ancient roman town of Aquileia was founded as a Roman Colony in 181 BC. It's majestic basilica, built in the 4th centrury AD, was witness to the anti-Arian council of 381. The mosaics and frescoes are astonishing and a true historical gem ...
It was from Udine that Attila the Hun stood to watch Aquileia burn in 452 - Venetian art and architecture abounds, and the town boasts the attractive Piazza Matteoti, a perfect spot for an Aperol Spritz on a sunny afternoon, to rest the weary legs ...
Cividale del Friuli stands on a site that marked the meeting point of Venetic and Celtic cultures. Founded as Forum Julii, allegedly by Julius Caesar himself (who watches over the town centre to this day), the town gave its name to the region, and boasts some rare examples of Lombardy art, including the extraordinary Tempietto Longobardo ... an absolute must see for art lovers ...
Historic Histria
It proved difficult to leave the rich and unspoilt land of north east Italy, but new experiences were begging ... Having delighted in the mountain peaks and rolling hills of the interior, we now returned to the sea, travelling along the Adriatic coastline, via Trieste, and crossing into historic Istria. While "Blue Istria" is a magnet for beach lovers, Mr Schmitt and I are most attracted by the undisturbed landscape and gastronomy of "Green Istria", combined with it's rich roman and byzantine history.
After a memorable lunch in beautiful Piran, tucked on the narrow Slovenian coastline, we continued across the border into Croatia. Rolling hills and a rustic landscape looking down on the Adriatic ... Malvasia vineyards, olive groves galore, indigenous white truffles ... a gourmet's paradise ... the mouth waters ...
Hotel San Rocco, located in Brtonigla, with its renowned restaurant, was our fabulous base from which to explore the culinary and historical wonders of the heart shaped peninsula ... from Pula's impressive arena, to the unforgettable splendour of the Euphrasian basilica in Porec, to the surprising discovaries along the Istrian wine roads ... All our senses were in overload ...
Serene Slovenia
Somewhere, there is a place where the calmness of the nature, as the sunlight, gently penetrates into our bodies! In the shelter of trees, where winds blow and share their strength with us, all worries fall off our shoulders just like the leaves fall off trees.
Lost in time, Hotel Kendov Dvorec is a self-proclaimed haven of peace and tranquility. Located on the right bank of the River Idrijca, the Manor overlooks the beautiful ancient parish church "Marija na Skalci" dating back to 1156. The landscape of this very green country is spectacular, with snow capped mountains, dense green forrest and turquoise green lakes ... home to an eclectic mix of cultures - Italian, Austrian, Hungarian and Balkan. This diversity results in a land rich in history and folklore ... a rustic, nature lovers paradise with a very local, traditional food and wine culture that is surprisingly sophisticated.
A historic region, inhabited since pre-historic times, and formerly part of the Roman Italia's X Region of Venetia et Histria, the country is also a motorbiker's dream. We will not forget the beautiful winding roads, gliding along river banks, and winding through lush forests and mountain peaks. What a way to finish an incredible adventure.
After 2,003 kilometres, we bid a fond farewell to Pegasus in Ljubljana. It had been a road trip for the ages, and we both realized there and then, that it was to be the first of many ... After all, what could be better than embracing culture, gastronomy and romance on the open roads of Europe ...
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