Adriatic Adventure

Our adventure starts at Venice, on the north-west Adriatic coast. From there we head south to Ravenna, once the ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire, before winding through the charming rustic countryside of the Marche. Heading into the Appenines, we experience a long-awaited albergo diffuso in all its restored glory in Santo Stefano di Sessanio, before winding south to feast on the historical and gastronomic wonders of Basilicata and Puglia - exploring Matera’s sassi and Otranto’s mosaics and martyrs. From Italy’s boot, at the southern tip of the western Adriatic coastline, we cross over the Sea to explore the Greek wonders of Butrint, and romance along the stunning Albanian riviera. Heading inland into Montenegro, Pegasus will come into his own, as Mr. Schmitt masters a region of majestic mountains and mighty canyons. Sarajevo will awaken our senses with it’s Oriental past and cultural diversity, before we are drawn back to the warmth of the Adriatic, to revel in the gastronomic treats of Croatia's island of Pag. Finally, we end another extraordinary adventure in Terra Magica - our Istria Nostra!

The Mosaics of Ravenna

I love mosaics ... I have spent hours (and could spend many more) in Porec’s incredible Euphrasian Basilica, so it was an understatement to say I was excited about our first destination! Arriving at Venice, unfortunately a little later than planned having missed our connection in Vienna, we were greeted by Ziga, one of our trusted and reliable friends from Adriatic Moto Tours, and from there Black Pegasus led the way for the relatively swift 2.5 hour journey to Ravenna. It was great to be back on the bike, with the sun having come out for us, with the first waft of the salty Adriatic air greeting us at Choggia, and with a bizarre feeling as if it was barely a few weeks since being in the saddle on our last adventure... that was a good sign!

After a quick check in and at the charming 19th Century Albergo Cappello, my thirst for mosaics exceeded even that for a glass of vino or Aperol spritz (a first I think!), so we headed out to explore. Where to start ? Well I’m not sure there could be a better place to start than the place described by Unesco experts as having "the earliest and best preserved of all mosaic monuments, and at the same time one of the most artistically perfect". So, to the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia it was ...

Galla Placidia was a remarkable woman of her time. Born in Thessaloniki to Theodosius I, Roman Emperor, she grew up in noble surroundings. Through a fairly tumultuous life, she first married the Visigoth King Ataulf, before a second marriage to Constantius III, during which she played an active role in Roman political life before becoming Empress of the West - when her husband assumed the title of Augustus in 421. One would expect an impressive resting place for such a lady of influence, but what awaited us blew me away ...

The mosaics we saw were extraordinary ... a visual and cultural feast. While Mr. Schmitt revelled in the incredible images of Justinian and Theodora at the Basilica of San Vitale, for me it was difficult to identify the highlightbetween the intimacy of Galla Placidia to the architectural & artistic wonders of San Vitale - so I simply savoured every moment. Having satiated my mosaic appetite for the day, much to Mr. Schmitt’s delight, we settled into Ambergo Capello’s wine bar and for what can only be described as a near perfect appetizer of prosciutto sant‘ilario, washed down with a wonderful Sangiovese di Romagna. After a gentle stroll through Piazzo di Poppolo, we stumbled upon our Osteria of choice, and enjoyed a fabulous sampling of great Emilia-Romagna cuisine. What a start to the trip ... culturally this was going to be difficult to top, and gastronomically, the standard was set ...

Marvellous Marche

After a fabulous night’s sleep and some much needed post red-eye rejuvenation, we rose full of energy to explore onwards. We started back on he mosaic trail, with a visit to the majestic Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo (Theodoric’s Palace Chapel in the 6th century), followed by the equally impressive Orthodox Baptistry, erected in the late 4th / early 5th century on the site of an old Roman bath. Finally, for this trip (we were sure this was to be the first visit of many visits to our much loved new discovery of Ravenna), we stopped just outside the old city walls as we could not miss the impressive Mausoleum of Theoderic, King of the Ostrogoths and ruler of Italy. The structure is said to be the last remaining intact mausoleum of a “Barbarian” king, and in an extraordinary and unexplained engineering feat of the early 6th century AD, it’s roof is made of a single 230 tonne Istrian stone! This was high on Mr Schmitt’s Priority list, and it was well worth the visit, but we did not linger too long as we had new lands to discover ...

There was one major UNESCO site that we had not experienced the previous day, and given it was directly on our route south, out of Ravenna, we headed straight to Sant Apollinare in Classe. Today it stands surrounded by modern high rises, whereas in its day it was located at the port itself - the very hub of the bustling imperial capital. It proved to be a fitting climax to our mosaic feast.

Our sights for the day were set far south of the city, into the depths of the Marche region. Exiting Ravenna, we headed for the Adriatic coast, and the coastal road that would take us through beautiful countryside, winding through the lanes with the waves lapping the shoreline to our east. Deciding to leave San Marino for another occasion, we continued winding southwards, stopping in the authentic small fishing town of XXX for our first taste of the Adriatic Sea on this trip. Having enjoyed the local catch with a fresh glass of local Marche white, we continued onwards, closing in on Loreto.

Legend has it that the house of the Blessed Virgin Mary was transported by angels from Jerusalem, first to Tersatto in Croatia, before being carried onwards to a small hill in the Marche countryside, around which a pilgrimage site and town of beauty was to form. That house is, today, enshrined in the Basilica della Santa Casa, proudly located in Loreto’s main square. Entering the Basilica it is difficult not to be drawn immediately to the impressive marble screen by Bramante that surrounds the house itself - a simple stone structure, yet one that commands such incredible belief in the eyes of many Roman Catholics. Whether or not you are a believer of such legends, there was undoubtedly an aura of mystery to the place ...

From the wings of angels, onto the wings of Pegasus, we left Loreto, heading for Loro Piceno, and the charming Casa Azzurra - our rural locanda of choice. A converted farmhouse, it was a perfect resting place for us in the heart of rural Marche. Having quickly refreshed, we headed to Seta Cruda for dinner - a restaurant with a focus on fresh wild fish and locally grown vegetables it could not have been a more perfect fit for us. Dinner was wonderful, overlooking fields of corn and the rustic countryside of what remains an unspoilt and beautiful part of Italy.

Apennine Adventures

Mr. Schmitt woke up looking forward to our first day in the mountains. After bidding farewell to our hosts at the Casa, we followed the foothills of the Marchean Apennines to the beautiful city of Ascoli Piceno, where we savoured a second espresso based breakfast in the stunning Piazza del Popolo, reminiscent of a blend of the wonders of both Dubrovnik and Venice, before taking to the road again. We headed west, traversing the Apennines towards Monte Vittore, and an opportunity to once again look down on the magnificent Piano Grande of Castelluccio. It was a stunning day so we decided to head down onto the plain, and reignite memories from 2014. The flowers were starting to bloom in the morning sunlight, with clouds hanging off Monti Sibilline, but it was shocking to see the state of Castellucio itself - the impact of the destructive earthquake of a few years back all too evident. May the restoration work continue and restore this gem in the world back to its former rustic glory.

We continued onward, shifting southwards, heading for the highest peaks and most rugged terrain of the Apennines - the Abruzzi range. Our destination was the small hilltop community of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, perched beneath the domineering peaks of the Gran Sasso d’Italia Massif. We wound our way through the foothills, stopping briefly at San Pietro della Ienca, an ancient shepherds community, and home to the ‘Pope’s Church’. Referred to by some as Pope John Paul II‘s spiritual refuge, you can understand why - in this day and age there can not be many places like it - remote, serene, surrounded by nature, clouds and majestic peaks. Leaving this solitary refuge, we were delighted to find the SS17bis open, and traced the Gran Sasso peaks, passing below the infamous Campo Imperatore (where Mussolini was temporarily imprisoned). We were fortunate to be there in May, when “the Gran Sasso National Park lies in the centre of Italy like a goddess with her most beautiful gown on. A multicoloured gown made of Adonises, Pasqueflowers, Lentils and thousands of other flowers”. Admiring the perfumes and colours that clothed the landscape and surrounded us, we descended towards our destination, and the promise of a relaxing late afternoon and evening in our ‘albergo diffuso’.

We had been excited to experience the albergo diffuso concept, and Sextantio (as Sessanio was known in Roman times) was not going to disappoint. A classic example of a historic medieval, fortified hilltop village, Santo Stefano was largely abandoned for years, before the

project to revive and conserve the village came to life. Our room for the night was historic charm at its best, but Mr. Schmitt tore me quickly outside to explore the village and step back in time. We spent a fabulous few hours, wondering the cobbled streets, exploring the galleries, sampling the local wine in the unforgettable Cantinone, before our appetites got the better of us and we enjoyed a traditional local feast in the Locanda sotto gli Archi - primitive in concept, but jam packed with atmosphere and serving up mouthwatering Abruzzi cuisine! What a day - culture, nature and gastronomic delights, and no better way to end it than with a healthy dose of romance in our hilltop refuge ...

Southwards to Basilicata

After waking from a fantastic nights rest in our medieval quarters, and enjoying a simple but satisfying breakfast, we got back on the road, descended through the foothills, and returned to the coast close to Pescara, the birthplace of the Gabriele D'Annunzio - the Italian "Poet, Seducer, and Preacher of War" - aptly described by his biographer Lucy Hughes-Hallet in the excellent book "The Pike". The mountains were magical, but I was happy to get the scent of the Adriatic back in our nostrils. We followed the coastal road south, leaving the Apennines far behind, and with the sea breeze in our hair / helmets we left Abruzzo and crossed into Puglia. At the "spur" of Puglia, we headed inland, winding through the hot and rustic countryside of Italy's deep south, edging closer to the border of Basilicata and our destination of Matera.

I was filled with anticipation as we drew closer to our destination. The 2019 European City of Culture (along with Bulgaria's Plovdiv) is both visually and structurally unique, and has a long and challenging history, only in recent times realizing sustainable growth and economic stability. The area itself has been inhabited since paleolithic times - that is approximately the 10th millennium BC! The ancient cave dwellings which make up the old town, are known as the "Sassi", and are believed to be the oldest human settlements in modern day Italy. Many of these have been transformed in recent years into hotels, restaurants and bars, creating an astonishing transformation in a city that in the 1950s was evacuated in line with the government policy to deal with the extreme poverty that existed in the area. The Sassi were essentially abandoned for a period of 4 decades, until the local administration started the regeneration project to transform the area into a centre of history and beauty, recognized first by UNESCO in 1993, and now treasured by the growing number of tourists who start to be aware of its appeal.

After a long day on the road, we were happy to arrive at Il Palazzotto located in the heart of Sasso Barisano. An extraordinary boutique hotel - luxurious and immaculately designed, but at the same time you felt immersed in the atmosphere of the Sassi. We refreshed, we explored the hotel - loitering for a little longer than planned in the wine bar (where they serve wine from their own winery) - and then headed out to find our dining spot for the night as the exploration in full would commence tomorrow. The evening was happiness personified - from all angles ... What a city - a hidden gem in Italy's deep south.

I am surprised I slept so well given my appetite to explore the depths and details of the Sassi. As we always do, we had organized a personal guide to guide us through the city's streets, monuments and history. Our tour took us through the ancient town, we visited monasteries and churches carved into the volcanic rocks and clothed in rupestrian art, and we lost ourselves in the maze of narrow lanes. Visibly fragile, the city is remarkable, and remains in need of significant and ongoing restoration. It was a long time however since I had visited such an emotive place. Bidding our excellent guide farewell, we settled into out patio seats for lunch before wandering further, seeking out some of the smaller and less visited churches, comprising of no more than a cave with an altar and single fresco adorning the wall. Our first rest day was going to be a tough one to beat ... our feet and my camera were ready for a rest when we settled into a cosy wine bar for a lengthy & relaxing evening feasting on great local southern cuisine and the memories of the day ...

We had one more Matera sight ahead of us the next morning. Having packed and bid our hosts farewell we made our way to the Crypt of Original Sin - a small cave church 16 kilometres south-west of Matera which we had learned of watching the fabulous series "Italy Unpacked". Known as 'the sistine chapel of rupestrian art', it was fascinating to see these religious early medieval frescoes (8th century AD) adorning the rough cave interior. Similar the Domus Aurea in Rome, it was discovered by accident in the 1960's when local youths noticed the art work in what was then a shepherd's shelter. The humble artist certainly left his mark, and this place is a jewel in Italy's southern region.

Mr. Schmitt had to tear me away as he had his sights set on another historic site - the Greek Ruins of Metaponto, which were set to be an amuse bouche to whet our appetites for our upcoming visit to Butrint - but let's not get ahead of ourselves!

Exploring Italy's Heel

Back on Pegasus, we crossed the border to Puglia, and ventured into Italy's heel, skirting the Ionian coastline down to the very tip at Santa Maria di Leuca. Having been lucky enough to visit so much of Italy, exploring the south was fascinating - radically different to other parts in many ways, but still blessed with natural beauty, and all the incredible ingredients that make Italy what it is - history, art, food, wine, la dolce vita in full glory ... Standing at the tip of the heel, looking out over the Ionian Sea, it felt pretty incredible ...

From the tip, we had about an hour on the road ahead of us before we reached our destination for the night - Otranto. The 'Porta d'Oriente' or the 'Gate to the East' is positioned where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet, and was the first point of entry of the Ottomans when they invaded Italian soil in 1480. A Greek city by origin, today it is a charming small coastal town, but one that carries a rich history and the experience of many travellers and conquerers having walked its streets. Our resting place, Palazzo de Mori, belonged to one of the 800 martyrs who had fallen to defend the city from the invading Saracens back in the 5th century, and one of who's skulls now resides in the town's impressive cathedral. A dark past, but one that was difficult to imagine today as we toasted a wonderful day, looking out over the bastions to the the sea and soaking in the panoramic view of the town as the sun set ...

There is something special waking up on the coast, stepping outside and breathing in that fresh sea air ... Espresso & macchiato fuelled, in the early morning light we followed the town's winding streets to the infamous cathedral - as we could not miss the opportunity to see its impressive 12th century mosaic floor, as well as the uneasy sight of the Capella Mortiri - a high alter surrounded by relics of the town's martyrs. Sombre thoughts were quickly dispelled however as we stepped back out into the glorious morning sunshine, and readied ourselves for a day of Puglia exploration.

Our first port of call was Lecce 'the Florence of the Baroque' - a city of numerous churches and palazzi. After a quick espresso and latte di mandorla overlooking the Roman amphitheatre, we continue our journey northwards, through winding roads of the olive grove strewn Apulian countryside. Rising high above the valley we approached the stunning city of Ostuni, with its white-washed houses cling to the slopes and surrounding the beautiful Gothic cathedral. 'La Citta Bianca', typical of the entire region, has a long and embattled history, passing through the hands of Romans, Ostrogoths, Lombards, Saracens, Byzantines and Normans, before the Italians fought over it amongst themselves. It is a magical place, a city in which to lose yourself in the winding alleys before coming across an opening which reveals a panoramic view of the Adriatic and surrounding countryside. I could have stayed here for days ...

Our Puglia road trip, however, had to continue and we returned to the fertile plateau of the Valle d'Itria. As we approached Locorotondo, we came across the iconic sight of our first trullo - a traditional Apulian dry stone hut with a conical roof, typical of this area. Constructed as temporary shelters for agricultural labourers, they dominate the landscape of the Murgian plain. From the valley we head back to the coast to explore the much lauded small coastal town of Polignano a Mare. Located on the craggy karst cliffs overhanging the Adriatic, it retains traces of the many conquering nations and tribes in its small historic centre. We were drawn however to a beautiful cafe carved into the cliffs where we sat and rested our road-weary limbs, looking out over the glistening sea, and discovered the legend of the city's foundation, where a seafaring Roman commander released his pet hawk to search for land, and the hawk was drawn to the craggy cliff that now houses an Adriatic gem. Again we had to tear ourselves away as we had a ferry to catch! We followed the coastal road north to the main port city of Bari, heading straight for the old port so that we could get checked in, and find a shady spot for Pegasus, while we took a tour of Bari Vecchia. Strolling the narrow maze of streets, and exploring the pilgrimage site of the Basilica di San Nicholas was a fitting way to finish the Italian stretch of our Adriatic Adventure. Boarding the ferry, I was sad to be bidding farewell to Italy, but that emotion was soon checked by the thought of the next phase of our trip and the experiences that lay ahead.

The Albanian Riviera

We were Greece bound, having boarded the "not so fast" Anek-Superfast ferry which promised to whisk us overnight to Igoumenitsa and the beginning of the Balkan phase of the trip. After a nightcap, light snack on board, and a wander on deck to admire the clear starry skies above us, we retired to our cabin for what was to be a short hop across the Adriatic. At the crack of dawn we were up and off the ferry, with the cultural feast of Butrint firmly in our sights. We headed straight for the Albanian border, and crossing over it quickly reached the national park, perched right on the water, a mere stone's throw from the island of Corfu.

To quote unesco.org, Butrint is a “microcosm of Mediterranean history”. Prehistoric sites have been discovered dating from the 10th century BC. It became a centre for the Greek Chaonian tribes from 800 BC, before becoming a Roman colony in 44 BC. Under Roman patronage it grew and prospered, expanding in the first century AD with the addition of an aqueduct and Roman baths, when Emperoro Augustus declared the city a veterans colony. Sadly it was impacted by an earthquake in the 3rd century which halted its advancement. Following this event, and as we saw in Italy’s heel, the centuries ahead saw it pass though the hands of many conquerors from lands near and far, including Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans, before becoming part of modern day Albania following the end of the First Balkan War in 1913.

Entering the archaeological site, in the glorious setting of the national park, with the early morning sunlight reflecting off the ruins, was a special experience. Roaming the ruins, it felt very much like a walk back through history as we saw monuments representing each of the conquerors that had left their mark over the centuries. We capped off our visit with a tour of the fascinating museum. For history buffs like us, four hours passed in a flash, and the experience would leave us plenty to ponder on as we left in search of the Albanian Riviera, tracing what many call one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world ...

The two hour drive from Butrint to Dhermi was indeed beautiful, and quickly persuaded me that the so called ‘Riviera’ absolutely deserved it’s name. Arriving mid afternoon at Hotel Summer Dream, aptly named for its fabulous location on the well know Drymades beach, we were ready for some relaxation, which was quick to follow. Refreshments in the form of our first experience of Albanian rose, followed by a stroll along the beach and dip into the inviting Adriatic Sea, were just what the doctor ordered! Stunning coastline scenery, the scent of the sea, and an inviting dinner of the day’s fresh catch were a perfect end to a culturally rich day, and a great precedent to the road trip that lay ahead tomorrow.

It is the Llogara Pass that is the reason for this coastal road being praised as up there with the most scenic drives, and it was not going to disappoint. We set off early, having woken shortly after sunrise and eager for the adventure ahead. Leaving Dhermi we rapidly started the ascent to the pass itself, and after a dramatic climb we reached the peak of the pass and were gifted with extraordinary views stretching on all sides. What a start to the day. We continued onwards, loving every minute of the ride - a cloudless sky above, descending slowly as we passed Orikum and moved northwards towards Vlore and beyond. Still inspired by our discoveries at Butrint, we took a quick detour, stopping off at Apollonia- a remarkably intact Greek archaeological site which was once an important bishopric in Illyria, founded in the 6th century BC. It was a little gem of a cultural teaser on what was otherwise a day for Pegasus.

Leaving Apollo’s land, we continues northwards, tracing the edge of Divjaka-Karavasta National park, approaching and bypassing the busy coastal port of Durres, before heading slightly inland to the city of Kruje. Inhabited originally by Illyrian tribes, the city became the capital of the first autonomous Albanian state in 1190. It is renowned in the country today as the stronghold of Skanderbeg, national hero, who successfully defended it against 3 Ottoman sieges. The fourth attempt, in 1478, was a siege too many, and the city fell to the invaders, and was retained under their control until Albanian independence in 1912. Situated amongst mountain peaks, it is today a charming medieval town, and a perfect historical and scenic refuge for us after a long day on the incredible open road. A little weary, we located our base for the night - Hotel Panorame Kruje - and quickly decided to admire the castle from afar and settle in for an evening of Albanian hospitality and early night’s rest.

Breathtaking Balkans

We were up with the larks again for a long and adventurous day on the open roads of Albania, winding our way up into the Montenegrin mountains to our mountain retreat. We headed initially towards Shkoder lake, a route explored just a year ago on our Balkan Adventure. We once again traced the lake’s northern shore, and witnessed those threatening mountains peering over us and the barren landscape. At Podgorica, we embarked on what was to be a staggering and memorable canyon trail. Moraca Canyon was the first - our starting point was essentially where it emptied into Shkoder Lake. We climbed up, following the road that carved its way along the very path that the river had when the canyon was created. The journey was filled with cliff side bends, switchbacks and tunnels galore. At times it felt as if the road itself was suspended on the edge of the gorge, with the raging river below, and sharp cliffs sailing above us skywards.

From there it was onwards to Durmitor National Park. Close to Kolasin, we left the Moraca and started our long and stunning drive tracing the Tara river. The canyon is the longest in Europe, and the second deepest in the world after the Grand Canyon. It was a day where we felt, more than any other I can remember, that we had left civilization behind. For long stretches as we followed the river we were the only travellers in site, surrounded by nature, and in awe of the beauty of what nature had created. Exhausted but invigorated we arrived in Zabljak, and were welcomed by our hosts for the night at Hotel Soa, our refined mountain lodge. We unwound over a simple but delicious local charcuterie and cheese platter, sitting on the terrace, admiring the scenery and loving the remote location. Montenegro was something else. Both our experiences in the mountain ranges and national parks of this country had been spectacular. There is only one way to end a night in this country - I made a tradition of it last year and a tradition it was to be - an Amaro Montenegro in Montenegro! A perfect ending to an action packed and incredible day ...

The sensational riding was to continue the next morning, when, after a hearty breakfast, we set off early crossing Durmitor National Park, and witnessing the beauty of the landscape and the impressive Piva Canyon. From Suvodo, we headed north, and followed the Piva upstream, along the national border with Bosnia-Hercegovina, until we met the long awaited Drina ...

The Bridge on the Drina

Mr. Schmitt does not like fiction, so when I surprised him for Christmas a few years ago with a copy of the wonderful and acclaimed (Nobel Prize for Literature winning) novel by Ivo Andric, I did take a risk. It was a calculated one and one that paid off. So here we were, 2 years later, following that very same river upstream, on our way to lay our eyes on the very bridge which is the hero of the wonderful book. It was close to Vucevo that the Drina separates into the Piva and Tara, fittingly two of our companions on this trip. We wound along the river road, following its path upstream for a couple of hours through rustic and sparsely populated scenery, until we reached Visegrád itself. The city had been devastated during the wars of the 1990s, and you could still very much see that the recovery - to people and property - was still underway. We parked Pegasus and walked towards the Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge. It was a strange feeling ... one of visiting a long lost friend, or maybe even more so a dear friend that a family member had told you so much about, but that you had never actually met until that time. At the centre of the bridge was the familiar Kapia, where we rested for a few minutes, lost in thought, remembering the history that this ‘hero’ experienced through an eventful life since its construction, which had started in 1571 under Ottoman rule, completing 6 years later. We did not linger too long, but long enough to complete full circle the voyage Mr Andric had taken us both on ... I would not have missed this encounter ...