Balkan Adventure

Our adventure starts at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, in Belgrade.  After a long awaited reunion with Pegasus we will head south to the birthplace of Constantine the Great, before visiting ancient Sofia en route to the City of Ghosts - Salonica, nestled on the Aegean Sea.  From there, Mr Schmitt and I will head north-west through idyllic Ohrid, traverse the mountainous terrain of Albania and Montenegro, en route to the spectacular Adriatic coast of southern Croatia.  After exploring George Bernard Shaw's "paradise on earth" we will cross briefly into Bosnia Herzegovina to experience the cultural diversity that surrounds Stari Most.  Korcula and it's remarkable indigenous wines awaits, before we satiate our cultural appetite with the rich Roman legacy of Split & Zadar.  Last but not least, we return to remarkable Istria Nostra for some gastronomy and romance to complete another extraordinary adventure ...

Following Via Militaris ...

There was no better historical way to start our journey than by following the path of the ancient Roman Via Militaris from Singidunum (Belgrade) via Naissus (Nis) to Serdica (Sofia) ... Heading South from Serbia's capital, we will skirt the Danube and Morava rivers, tracing in reverse the path that the Ottoman Turks followed during their first European conquests...  

Hailed since ancient times as a gateway city between East and West, Nis has certainly felt the impact of the turbulent history of the Balkan region as a whole ...  

Inhabited in the Iron Age by the Thracians, the city was conquered by the Celtic Scordisci tribe in the 3rd century BC before the Romans invaded the Balkans two centuries later, when the Roman city of Naissus became one of the key towns on Via Militaris.   It was in this Roman city that Constantine the Great was born in 272 AD.  The Slavs, Hungarians and the Serbs conquered and briefly held the city before it fell under Ottoman rule for the first time in 1375 - the start of the Ottoman era which was only to be briefly punctuated by Serb and Austrian attacks over the coming centuries.

After a much needed nights rest at Garni Hotel Eter in the heart of Nis, we head out to visit a stark reminder of the role played by the city in the Serbian revolution of 1804-17.  Cele Kular (Skull Tower) remains a vivid reminder of the failed Serbian mission to liberate Nis, when, following their defeat at the Battle of Cegar, the Ottoman commander ordered the heads of all fallen Serbs to be mounted on a tower as a warning.  A chilling site for sure ... but one that has become a symbol of resistance and the struggle for freedom.  The goal of liberating Nis, as part of Serbian independence as a whole, was realized in the 1870s. 

Roman Serdica

Back on the road - continuing on the route of the Via Militaris - we head straight for Roman Serdica - today's Sofia, the laid back capital of Bulgaria, another city steeped in history ...   

After a relaxing late lunch and local orientation at the rooftop bar of the boutique Sense Hotel - our home for the night - we head out for what bodes to be a fascinating step back into Roman times, intertwined with a window into the religious diversity of the region ... In cultural heaven we explored the Rotunda of St George, believed to be the oldest building in Sofia, constructed in the 4th century along with fascinating Roman ruins recently uncovered (2010-12) during the construction of the city's metro.  From the Roman era to late 19th century Bulgarian liberation we explore the impressive Alexander Nevsky cathedral - a monument built in honour of those that lost their lives in the fight for liberty, and today the country's most important Orthodox church. 

There is nothing like walking amidst history to build up an appetite and a thirst ... dinner called!  After our first full experience of Bulgarian cuisine and wine, and after all that walking we were ready for a good nights rest ...

Feeling good and ready for action, we could not leave Sofia without a visit to the small but spectacular UNESCO listed Boyana Church.  Built in multiple phases, from the 10th to 19th centuries, the tiny orthodox church packs a punch with a feast of frescoes which are deemed to be one of the best examples of Bulgarian medieval art ... I was in art heaven !!   

Salonica - the City of Ghosts

"The traveller in pursuit of the picturesque or in flight from the commonplace will find here what he seeks" (William Miller, 1898)

Having recently read Mark Mazower's extraordinary history of Salonica, the next stop on our adventure was destined to be a highlight for both of us ... After a spectacular drive through the Balkan mountains we reached our destination, and the glorious Aegean Sea, in great anticipation of stepping back into the history and exploring this great city with our own eyes ...

The city is known today as Thessaloniki, which is in fact its original name.  It was named after Thessaloniki, daughter of Philip of Macedon, in commemoration of the victory (niki) of her father over the people of Thessaly.  Noble roots indeed for the City of Ghosts.

According to Ottoman legend, Sultan Murad was asleep when God came to him and gave him a beautiful rose to smell ... the Sultan requested to keep it ... the rose was Salonica ... God decreed it to be his ... and shortly after, in 1430, the Ottomans invaded and captured the city.

A crossroad of cultures, religions and ethnicities, with Helenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman roots, the city has a rich yet turbulent past.  Sadly the disastrous twentieth century destroyed many of the relics of its history, yet we were determined to soak in as much as we could of the past and present metropolis.

After a relaxing evening soaking in the sunset across the Aegean, roaming the lively waterfront, and settling in to discover the bounty of Greece's gastronomic capital, we were ready to explore ....  We set off early from Hotel Excelsior, heading straight for the upper town to explore the fortress, acropolis walls and the breathtaking view of the city, with Mount Olympus, home of the gods, standing dominantly on the horizon.  From this point our tour began, winding slowly down through the narrow, cobbled streets ... soaking in the art, religion and history of the Vlatadon Monastery, the Church of David Hosios, and the church of the city's patron saint - Demetrios.  We could not resist sampling the authentic Macedonian cuisine at one of the many taverns of the upper town, and we somehow managed to escape relatively unscathed from the tempations of ouzu and tsipouro!  

Roman delights of the Rotunda and the Arch of Galerius awaited us before we reached the White Tower - one of the infamous landmarks of the city - and last but by no means least (on the culture front), we could not miss out on Hamza Bey - one of only two remaining mosques in Salonica, built in 1468.  What a day ... 

Culturally satiated and thirsty as a result, we romanced the evening away at a wonderful find - a Mediterranean institution ... espresso bar by morning and wine bar by night (or strictly speaking from 11am!) ... a reminder of where in this world we belong!!  

We had arrived well read and with high expectations.  On our last evening here, we relished the opportunity to sit back and reflect on the many highlights of a wonderful day as we toasted the wonders of this extraordinary city.  A cultural, gastronomical and romantic high ... 

As we took a final stroll, hand in hand, along the waterfront, we passed the impressive statue of Thessaloniki's half-brother - Alexander the Great.  Philip no doubt would have been a proud father ... and it was at this moment that we were reminded of the day ahead when we would venture away from the coast to further explore his great kingdom of Macedonia ...  

Vergina - an unplanned WOW moment ...

Marvellous Macedonia

Having enjoyed a farewell breakfast at the Excelsior's wonderful roof-top breakfast room, we set out for the next phase of our adventure.  We headed initially west through rural northern Greece, before shifting northwards to, and across, the Macedonian border.  The spectacular lake district was calling ...

We skirted the north west shore of Lake Prespa, before crossing into Galichica National Park and the beautifully scenic mountain pass that would lead us across to Lake Ohrid.  Mr Schmitt masterfully conquered the trip's first (but not last) hairpin road, as we descended towards the small fishing village of Trpejca, where, on Vlad's recommendation, we made a well deserved stop after an extraordinary ride ...

Refreshed, and ready to move on we headed north along the lakeshore towards our resting place for the night, Ohrid, and the charming Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Kliment.  Rejuvenated from the long drive by a welcoming glass of the house's very own Amphora label - a unique rose wine of the ancient grape variety Pamid, whose origins have been traced to 5-4 B.C in Thrace - we tore ourselves away, eager to head out on foot and explore.  We followed the coastal road to the picture perfect symbol of Ohrid, the Church of St John at Kaneo.  A blend of Byzantine and Armenian architectural styles, its exterior is iconic, and the frescoes of the interior are also not to be missed ...

Inspired by the scenery and lakeside spirituality we meandered back to the Old Town ... ready to relax, unwind, and explore the food, wine and local traditions of this stunning, unspoilt region ... we were not disappointed ... 

Crossing the Dinaric Alps

Mr Schmitt had to tear me away from this Macedonian gem, but once on the road the excitement quickly built at what was destined to be an incredible day's road-trip through Albania and into Montenegro ...

Leaving Lake Ohrid, we headed north towards the Albanian border.  Crossing the border we headed westwards, across the country towards the Adriatic, through the hilly terrain, and for large stretches tracing the Mat River.  Having crossed the breadth of the county we head north towards Shkoder, the old Illyrian capital, perched on the southern shore of the lake that bears the city's name.

As we continued onwards, skirting the lake on the eastern shore, it was difficult to ignore the "Accursed Mountains" to our east.  The Albanian Alps form the southern tip of the Dinaric Alps, and were formed by the collision of the Eurasian and African plates.  The jagged peaks are menacing yet beautiful, remote and seemingly impenetrable ... Spectacular scenery to say the least ... 

Sadly our time in Albania was limited, and as we crossed the border into Montenegro, there was no doubt in our minds that we would return - this was a country that had so much more to explore and a rustic and unspoilt landscape that was made for biking!

With the afternoon sun hot on our backs we continued onwards through southern Montenegro, eager to make it to our destination after a long but rewarding day on the road.  Hotel Ivanov Konak was located in the heart of Lovcen National Park, and in the heart of the mountains and nature.  We arrived exhilarated, if weary.  The patio immediately called us, and we sat with a glass in hand, breathing in the mountain air, satiated (as bikers) from the day's adventure, and ready to sample the local cuisine before an early night.  There was no doubt we would sleep well, and we needed to, as in the morning the hairpins would be calling ...  

Mount Lovcen, is otherwise know as the Black Mountain (Crna Gora), from which the country took its name.  It holds a special place in the hearts and minds of the nation, acting for centuries as a bastion of Slavic resistance to the Ottoman challenge.

We rose early ... eager for what lay ahead.  In need of a quick dose of culture we headed straight to the mountain top mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos - the beloved 19th century ruler of the nation, poet and philosopher.  

Now the Kotor Serpentine called.  The road leading from Cetinje through the national park to Kotor, is one of the most famous hair pinned roads in the world.  The gods were with as as the sun was shining, and the conditions perfect to navigate the 16 hairpin stretch.  Deep breaths required.  Mr Schmitt was cool, calm and always in control.  The road was quiet, the elevation drop intense, the hairpins seemingly endless, the view extraordinary and nerve wracking!!  Wow ... I was shaking as Pegasus mastered the final stages ... adrenalin, awe and relief all in equal & healthy quantities!!        

After a well deserved break for rest, refreshment and a touch of celebration on another biking accomplishment, we followed the shoreline of the Bay of Kotor, until we reached the Dalmatian coast, and enjoyed every minute of the relaxed ride across the border into Croatia.  The old Republic of Ragusa was well and truly in our sites ...  

Paradise on Earth

"Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik." George Bernard Shaw

I was eager to set my own eyes on the Pearl of the Adriatic.  Could it possible live up to the lofty praise received from George Bernard Shaw and others ?  We were soon to find out for ourselves ... Having found a secure spot for Pegasus outside the city walls, we  headed straight for St Joseph's - an aptly named and wonderful boutique hotel in the old town centre. I can't imagine why we chose it!

Our first evening was strictly to be high quality R&R - relaxing and romancing of course!  Having freshened up, we set off to get lost amongst the winding limestone streets, with the goal of stumbling across that inviting patio, and a table that had our name on it.  It did not take us long ... a crisp Malvasia quickly arrived, accompanied by the day's catch.  As we took a stroll after dinner to soak in the environs, we could only agree that first impressions were pretty fabulous!

We had organized a private tour through St Joseph's, and after a great breakfast delivered to the room (you have to love this hotel), we set off to explore the old town, walk the city walls and listen to, and absorb, the history in one of the most enjoyable ways -  as told by a local ...  

Dubrovnik's history is as rich as the city is stunning.  Ragusa (the Latinate name) is believed to have been founded in the 7th century.  For many centuries, while owing it's allegiance to the powerful regional empires of the Byzantines, Venetians and Hungarians, it remarkably remained, throughout, a fairly autonomous and increasingly powerful city.  Dubrovnik's declaration as an independent republic in 1400, the subsequent Papal recognition of it's neutrality 1444, and its rapidly growing prestige as a trading nation in the Mediterranean, quickly sowed the seeds of distrust with the Venetians, and launched a long-standing rivalry.  Diplomatically savvy, the Ragusa Republic successfully managed relations with the Ottomans,  enabling the expansion of both its territory (to Kotor in the south and the Peljesac Peninsula in the north), and its commercial reach and prowess through the 15th and 16th centuries before fate struck a cruel hand.  The earthquake of 1667 - striking the city at close to its peak of prosperity -  was catastrophic in its nature and impact, and initiated its decline ...  It would not take too long before it was to rise again when the world discovered it's beauty and the industry of tourism took its hold ...

Bidding thanks and farewell to our guide, we set off for explorations of our own, taking in all that the city had to offer ... from the old town atmosphere, to the hidden Cafe Buza, to the inviting patio tables and delicious fruits of the Adriatic ...

Paradise ?  I'm not sure, but it felt pretty close ....

Enchanting Mostar

We were up early, eager to set off before the sun gained too much strength ...  As we headed north on the coastal road, I just fell further in love with the Adriatic and the region as a whole - the rustic land and spectacular coastline ...  So much more to be explored ...  but today we had other plans ...

Bearing east, we moved inland ... destination Mostar ...  A short 2 hour drive from Dubrovnik, many do it as part of a day trip, but we wanted a little more time to experience the city, soak in its Ottoman past, and explore the beautiful regeneration of this formerly war-torn city.   

I think its fair to say that we were totally intrigued not only by the thought of the city as a whole, but also of our hotel.  When I discovered an Ottoman museum doubling up as a boutique hotel, there was no hesitation as to where we were staying!  Muslibegovic House is considered one of the most beautiful houses from the Ottoman period in the entire Balkan region as well as being one of the most significant examples of residential Ottoman architecture - by all accounts it would be a fit for the Schmitts!  

Having settled into our museum (!) and after a quick exploration, we headed out into the city itself.  Mostar is a city divided, or in other words, actually 2 cities at the same time separated and joined by the Neretva River and the iconic Stari Most Bridge.  The city is named after the "Bridge Keepers" (mostari) who guarded the Old Bridge (Stari Most) in medieval times.  The city came under Ottoman rule in the 15th century, and it was Suleiman the Magnificent who ordered the bridge's construction in stone in 1566.  I was excited as we climbed the 89 steps of the Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque's minaret to get a first glimpse ... wow ...

From here, it was to and across the bridge itself ... it felt like being in a different world, filled with minarets and islamic architecture, and that feeling was only to increase as we entered the old town and walked the cobbled streets lined with market stalls and goods that you would expect to find in the bazaars of Istanbul.  The Ottoman traditions had passed through the centuries and remained very evident today.  Also evident were the scars from the devastation of the 1990's war ... I could not help but feel that the reconstructed Stari Most provided a sense of optimism - a metaphor for unity - and a sign of a more positive future ahead ... Let's hope so ...

A fascinating cultural experience was to be complimented by a wonderful gourmet one, as the sun set, the lights of the city started to glimmer, and we dined against the the backdrop of the Old Bridge ... We had wanted to inject a first taste of the Ottoman world into this trip, and as we strolled back to the museum, we new that this was just a first taste of other experiences that would come, and a fabulous one at that ... 

In Search Of Grk

Leaving Mostar early we headed westwards back towards the Adriatic Coast, starting the days quest in search of Grk ...

We were originally introduced to this gift from the gods at Dubravkin Put in Zagreb, on the high recommendation of our waiter.  After that taste experience we had vowed to go in search of this wonderful indigenous variety which was to be found only on the island of Korcula.  As we entered the beautiful wine country of the Peljesac Peninsula, the roads started to gently wind, through hills and valleys filled with wine ... past Mali Ston it was an hours scenic drive to the fisherman's town of Orebic, from where we took a short ferry over to Korcula.  With the sun beaming down and the wind in our hair, we were excited for the afternoon ahead ...  

I had been fortunate enough to snag a room at the fabulous Lesic Dimitri Palace hotel ... an exceptional Relais & Chateaux hotel, located in Korcula's old town.  From hereon in, everything was taken care of ...  After a light late lunch and a first sampling of the fabulous local wine, we embarked on the Treats of Korcula tour.  It was a tour made for us - combining the history of the island, with wonderful samplings of the rich and unctuous local olive oils, and then the long awaited Grk and Posip ... heavenly ...

Back at the Palace, having quickly eyed our table overlooking the Adriatic, we continued the wonderful wine tasting experience and dined like royalty.  As the sun slowly set over the horizon, I never wanted the night to end ... I can only think that George Bernard Shaw never visited Korcula ...

Surprising Split

#culture #gastronomy #romance